WMHT Specials
The Great Ledge: Exploring Thacher
Special | 56m 45sVideo has Closed Captions
Explore the history and wonder of John Boyd Thacher State Park.
New York’s John Boyd Thacher State Park in the Helderberg Mountains has inspired visitors for generations. This documentary explores the wonder of Thacher Park from never before seen perspectives and ask challenging questions about land use, conservation and historic preservation. Learn more: http://www.wmht.org/thacher
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WMHT Specials is a local public television program presented by WMHT
WMHT Specials
The Great Ledge: Exploring Thacher
Special | 56m 45sVideo has Closed Captions
New York’s John Boyd Thacher State Park in the Helderberg Mountains has inspired visitors for generations. This documentary explores the wonder of Thacher Park from never before seen perspectives and ask challenging questions about land use, conservation and historic preservation. Learn more: http://www.wmht.org/thacher
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
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>> PRODUCTION FUNDING FOR THE GREAT LEDGE HAS BEEN PROVIDED BY YOUR CONTRIBUTION.
THANK YOU.
AND BY-- [SINGING] NO NEED TO COMPLICATE OUR SIGN IS YOURS THIS IS OUR FATE I'M YOURS DO DO DO [SINGING] >> AND BY THE ENDER FAMILY FOUNDATION OF THE COMMUNITYCATION FOR THE GREATER CAPITAL REGION AND BY THE BARBER LINELL GLASER LAND PRESERVATION FUND OF THE COMMUNITY FOUNDATION FOR THE GREATER CAPITAL REGION.
FUNDING FOR CLOSED CAPTIONING PROVIDED BY FRIENDS OF THACHER STATE PARK.
>> JUST WEST OF THE CAPITOL OF THE GREAT STATE OF NEW YORK IS A SEEMINGLY RIDGE OF HILLS THAT ARE PART OF A WEATHERED MOUNTAIN RANGE WITH A LONG AND STORIED HISTORY, THE HELDERBERGS.
ALONG THE CREST OF THE HELDERBERGS, KNOWN AS THE ESCARTMENT AND THE INDIAN LADDER REGION IS THE THACHER STATE PARK WITH NEARLY 2,400 FORESTED ACRES AND SWEEPING VIEWS OF THE HUDSON AND MOHAWK VALLEYS.
ITS STAR ATTRACTION IS A SET OF DRAMATIC FOSSIL-RICH LOOMSTONE CLIFFS.
A SECTION OF WHICH WAS ONCE KNOWN AS THE GREAT LEDGE.
[MUSIC] >> IT'S A GREAT TRADITION, THACHER PARK.
>> I LOVE THACHER IN ALL SEASONS BECAUSE EACH SEASON PRESENTS SOMETHING DIFFERENT.
>> IT'S PRETTY INCREDIBLE.
>> LARGE GROUPS OF US WOULD HIKE UP INTO THE MOUNTAINS ARE AND WE WOULD INVESTIGATE EVERY CRACK AND CREVICE THAT WE COULD FIND.
>> I TOOK MY KIDS UP HERE, WALKED THE INDIAN LADDER TRAIL AND IT WAS SPECTACULAR AND I GREW UP DOWN IN NEW YORK CITY.
SO THIS WAS JUST, YOU KNOW, EYE-POPPING.
>> FOR US TO HAVE SUCH A DRAMATIC GEOLOGICAL LANDSCAPE, SO CLOSE TO THE CITY OF ALBANY IS REALLY A MIRACLE.
>> THE ROCKS UNDER OUR FEET RIGHT HERE, WE ACTUALLY DATED CRYSTALS FROM VOLCANIC ASHES THAT ARE 17 MILLION YEARS OLD.
>> IT IS A SPECIAL PLACE.
WE HAVE GREAT MEMORIES OF THACHER PARK AND GREAT FAMILY MEMORIES.
[ SCREAMING ] [ LAUGHTER ] [MUSIC] >> I THINK THE 1950S, IT WAS A REFLECTION OF WHAT WAS GOING ON IN AMERICA.
RIGHT?
IT WAS CAR CULTURE AND YOU KNOW, YOU'RE GOING TO DRIVE TO A BEAUTIFUL SPOT AND PICNIC WITH YOUR FAMILY AND YOUR COOL CAR WILL BE THERE.
>> IN 1954, GOVERNOR DEWEY CAME TO THACHER PARK TO ANNOUNCE A GRAND REOPENING OF THE PARK AND THE NEW IMPROVEMENTS THAT WERE PUT THERE.
>> THAT'S THE TIME THAT THE STATE INVESTED IN ACTIVE RECREATION.
IT BUILT A LOT OF ROADS.
IT BUILT PICNIC SHELTERS AND ALL THE INFRASTRUCTURE TO SUPPORT AND THAT WAS WHAT THE PER SEWER AND THE TERRAIN IS VERY CHALLENGING.
SO THE INFRASTRUCTURE INVESTMENT WAS HUGE TO PROVIDE THOSE KINDS OF FACILITIES AT THE TOP OF THAT CLIFF, AND THERE WERE GRAND PLANS TO DEVELOP A HOTEL, CAMPGROUNDS, A GOLF COURSE, THE POOL COMPLEX WHICH WAS ONE OF THE ONLY THINGS THAT REALLY GOT DEVELOPED.
>> BACK THEN, NOBODY HAD A SWIMMING POOL IN THEIR BACKYARD?
SO YOU HAD TO FIND A PLACE TO GO AND THIS WAS THE PLACE TO BE.
>> THE POOLHOUSE WAS REALLY A BIG ATTRACTION.
I THINK ADULT SWIMMERS COULD SWIM FOR 50 CENTS AND KIDS FOR LIKE 25 OR 30 CENTS ALL DAY LONG, AND THEY WERE BUSING KIDS FROM THE CITY WOULD KNEW NOTHING ABOUT THE OUTDOORS.
>> WE GREW UP COMING TO THACHER PARK AS KIDS AND TEENS, WHEN THEY HAD THE POOL.
WE USED TO BE UP HERE.
>> WELL, IT HAD ALMOST TERMINALLY COLD WATER.
IT WAS BRAZEN, TO SAY THE LEAST.
>> THE TEN ANTS HAD INCREASED FROM 260,000 A YEAR TO ABOUT 440,000.
>> WE REMEMBER COMING THROUGH IN THE CAR AND HAVING TO SEARCH THEIR TABLE.
>> 89,000 PEOPLE HAD USED THE POOL IN THE FIRST YEAR.
>> WHEN YOU'RE WORKING IN THE AFTERNOON AND THE WIND WAS RIGHT, YOU COULD HEAR THE LOUD SPEAKER OF THE POOL RIGHT HERE ON THE FARM WHILE YOU'RE OUT IN THE ORCHARD.
>> THERE WOULD BE BLANKETS ON THE GROUND NEXT TO EACH OTHER AND YOU DIDN'T EVEN KNOW THEM.
I MEAN, IT WAS THAT BUSY ALL THE TIME.
WE USED TO GO AFTER WORK.
WE WOULD JOG UP TOWARD ELDERMONT AND GO TO THE POOL.
>> I CAN REMEMBER WHEN YOU COULD CAMP HERE ON THE PARK.
THERE WERE TWO CAMPGROUNDS.
THERE WAS ONE AT WHAT WAS THEN CALLED UPPER PAINT MINE AND THERE WAS ANOTHER ONE WHEN YOU GO UP TO KNOWLES FLAT, THERE'S A BEND IN THE ROAD AND JUST OFF THAT BEND, THERE WAS A SMALL CAMPGROUND.
>> HIS FAMILY USED TO COOK BIG ITALIAN MEALS UP HERE AND REMEMBERED EVERYBODY ELSE WOULD HAVE HOT DOGS, REMEMBER?
AND HAMBURGERS AND HE'D BE HAVING-- >> SPAGHETTI.
>> SPAGHETTI.
>> THACHER PARK IS WHERE YOU WOULD COME.
THERE WOULD BE A CHARCOAL FIRE THAT YOU WOULD GET GOING WITH THE NEWS PAPER MY FATHER WOULD SIT AND READ THE BIG, THICK SUNDAY NEWSPAPER.
MY GRANDPORE AND MOTHER WOULD BE HERE AND MY BROTHER TERRY AND I, WE WOULD JUST, I GUESS, RUN WILD.
WE WOULD WANDER UP THE HILL AND FIND NEW NARROW VALLEYS AND HILLTOP TO LOOK AT AND THEN I SUPPOSE AS I LOOK BACK AT IT, IT WASN'T THE SAFEST THING.
WE WOULD PARTICULARLY AS WE GET OLDER, WE WOULD GO DOWN ON WHAT WE CALLED THE BEAR PATH WHICH IS THE INDIAN LADDER TRAIL AND WE WOULD WANDER ALL OF THAT AND OWE INTO THE LITTLE FAT MAN'S MISERY, THE LITTLE CAVE THAT'S DOWN THERE, WHICH IS AT THE BOTTOM OF A CREVICE AND UNDERNEATH THE WATER FALL, WE WOULD GO WAY OUT AND OVER THE LAKE AND THEREFORE, EVERYBODY IN THE ENTIRE PATH WENT UNDERNEATH IT.
IT WAS WONDERFUL AND WE, I SUPPOSE, GOT A LITTLE MORE INTELLECTUAL BY MIDDLE SCHOOL AGE, WE WOULD LOOK FOR THE FOSSILS AND YOU COULD PICK UP THE IMPRESSIONS OF SHELLS THAT WENT BACK TO PRE-HISTORIC TIMES >> OF I RAN THE ELDER CLUB AT THE HIGH SCHOOL WHERE I TAUGHT FOR TEN YEARS AND BROUGHT ALL OF MY STUDENTS TO THIS AREA TO SEE THE BEAUTIFUL CAVE, TO SEE THE BEAUTIFUL CLIFFS AND THE VIEW FROM THACHER PARK AND TO WALK THE INDIAN LADDER TRAIL AND WALK UNDERNEATH THE WATERFALL.
>> THE FIRST NATIVE AMERICAN INHABITANTS OF THE THACHER PARK AREA AND THE GREAT LEDGE OF THE ELDERBURGS WAS MOHICANS AND THEIR LAND WAS PART OF A VAST NORTHEASTERN FOREST.
WE BELIEVE SINCE TIME AND MEMORIAL, WE LIVED AND THRIVED ALL ON THESE LANDS FOR THOUSANDS OF YEARS.
>> THE FOREST IN THE NORTHEAST WAS ALL OF WHAT THEY CALL A CLIMAX FOREST AND HUGE PINES AND MAPLES AND OAK.
THERE'S A SAYING THAT A SQUIRREL COULD GO ALL THE WAY FROM MAINE TO GEORGIA WITHOUT TOUCHING THE GROUND.
>> IT SOUNDS LIKES IT WAS TEAMING WITH WILDLIFE, ELK, STREAMS ARE FULL OF EEL, TROUT, ALL KINDS OF FISH AND GAME THAT YOU COULD EVER WANT ARE ON THOSE LANDS.
WE LIVED A VERY ABUNDANT LIFE AND INCLUDING ON THE LANDS OUT HERE WHICH IS CALLED THACHER PARK AND WE CONSIDER THIS PART OF OUR HOME TERRITORY AS WELL AS ALL ON THE HUDSON RIVER VALLEY AND WE KNOW WE HAD AT LEAST 12 VILLAGES THAT HAVE BEEN RECORDED AND WRITTEN ABOUT UP AND DOWN THE RIVER AND NOW MOST PEOPLE REFER TO AS HUSBAND RIVER, AFTER HENRY HUDSON.
WE KNOW THIS IS OUR HOMELAND.
THIS IS WHERE OUR NAME AND IDENTITY WILL ALWAYS FOE BACK TO.
MOST PEOPLE EXPRESS HOW THEY FEEL, THE PRESENCE OF OUREN A SISTERS ALL AROUND THEM.
WITH HENRY HUDSON FIRST CAME IN 1609, WE GREETED HIM THE WAY WE WOULD ANY RESPECTED VISITER FROM ANOTHER NATION.
>> THE DUTCH HAD HIRED ENGLISHMAN, HENRY HUDSON, TO EXPLORE A NEW ROUTE TO THE FAR EAST.
>> AND IT'S INTEREST, THIS EXFOILATION OF HUDSON THAT GAVE THE DUTCH THE RIGHT OF EXPLORATION TO SAY THAT THIS IS THEIR LAND NOW, THAT THEY CAN SETTLE THIS LAND, AND THIS IS WHAT BECOMES BENEVOLENT.
YOU HAVE A SERIES OF EXPLORERS WHO COME OVER AND MOSTLY TRAITORS-- TRADERS, TRADING CARTELS, PUT TOGETHER, PRIVATE TRADING CARTELS TO COME OVER AND GET THE FURS.
THEY WOULD BE TRADE GOODS OVER AND TRADE WITH THE INDIANS FOR FURS.
>>THE FUR TRADERS FOLLOWED THE INDIANS WEST TO THE ELDERBURGS.
WHEN THE DUTCH DISCOVERED THE HELDERBERG, THEY REFERRED TO IT AS THE HEL-DE-BURG THERE WERE MANY VARIATIONS AND THE DUTCH WROTE IT DOWN AS HALE-BURG AND THAT TRANSLATES INTO CLEAR MOUNTAIN.
SO THE INDIAN LADDER TRAIL, AS IT WAS KNOWN, WAS USED BY NATIVE AMERICANS TO DO BUSINESS WITH FUR TRADERS IN WHAT WE NOW KNOW AS ALBANY.
>> IN THE EARLIEST RECORDS OF THE DUTCH, THEY ARE TOLD TO MAKE SURE THEY FIND THE RIGHTFUL OWNERS OF THE LAND AND TO MAKE SURE THAT THEY ARE SATISFIED FOR THE PURCHASE.
THE DUTCH HAVE ALWAYS BEEN, YOU HAVE TO LEAVE A PAPER TRAIL.
YOU NEED TO HAVE PAPER FOR EVERYTHING.
>> GOING BACK TO THE LAND DEEDS WHICH IS UNIQUE FOR OUR TRIBE VERSUS OTHER NATIVE PEOPLE, BUT ALL OF OUR HISTORY OF POSSESSION HAS BEEN METICULOUSLY RECORDED.
>> NOW THE INDIANS IN THE EARLY YEARS DO NOT UNDERSTAND THAT THIS PURCHASE IS FOR ETERNITY, THEY FELT THAT THE LAND WAS LIKE THE AIR, THAT NOBODY COULD OWN IT?
>> THE STAGES ARE LOOKING AT THIS LAND TRANSACTION DIFFERENTLY.
I WASN'T A LOCAL DEALING WHERE WE THOUGHT THIS IS A GREAT DEAL TO GET A COUPLE OF BLANKETS AND KETTLES FOR THIS, YOU KNOW, TREMENDOUSLY BEAUTIFUL, USEFUL, YOU KNOW, PIECE OF LAND.
WE LOOK TO OBVIOUSLY UNDERSTAND THAT THAT'S NOT A FAIR DEAL.
WE HAVE THAT KNOWLEDGE, BUT WHAT WE THOUGHT ABOUT IT WAS MORE THAT IT WAS A LEASE AGREEMENT IN A WAY, LIKE THAT WOULD BE THE MODERN DAY COMPARISON.
>> IT JUST WASN'T PART OF THEIR WORLD.
THE DUTCH, OF COURSE, WHEN THEY TOOK ADVANTAGE OF THIS OR NOT PROBABLY BUT I THINK THE INDIANS UNDERSTOOD FAIRLY QUICKLY WHAT WAS GOING ON.
>> THE LAND PAST FROM THE NATIVE AMERICANS TO THE DUTCH WHO THEN PRIVATIZED COLONIAL SETTLEMENT.
KILLIAN VAN RENSSELAER AMASSED A LARGE TRACT OF LAND KNOWN AS RENSSELAER THAT INCLUDED THE HELDERBURG REGION.
THE FARMERS HAD TO PAY THE VAN RENSSELAER FAMILY RENT FOR THOSE GENERATIONS AND OTHER DUTCH FAMILIES LIVE IN THE BEAVERWICK, ITSELF.
>> DUTCH SETTLEMENT HERE LED TO THE ENGLISH AND THE SCOTCH AND THE IRISH AND THE GERMANS.
THEY TRAVELED TO THE VALLEY AND SOME STAYED HERE AND SOME MOVED FURTHER WEST AND THE INDIANS, THEMSELVES, WERE PUSHED FURTHER WEST.
>> WITH WE LOOK BACK AT THESE POINTS IN HISTORY AND WE SEE AGAIN AND AGAIN, OUR LEADERSHIP WAS FORCED TO STOP AND MAKE A DECISION AND SAY HOW ARE WE GOING TO STAY TOGETHER?
THE GREAT LEDGE OF THE HELDERBURGS WAS PART OF A DIVIDED REGION DURING THE AMERICAN REVOLUTION.
MANY SUPPORTERS OF THE BRITISH CROWN LIVED SIDE BY SIDE WITH THOSE WOULD SOUGHT INDEPENDENCE.
>> THE HELDERBURGS WRITTEN WERE REGULAR NESTS OF TREASONABLE DESIGN FOR PEOPLE LOYAL TO THE CROWN.
IT WAS DIFFICULT AT THE TIME FOR PEOPLE WOULD LIVED HERE.
YOU WANTED TO BE ON THE WINNING SIDE AND IF YOU WERE LOYAL TO THE CROWN, YOU WERE ONE KIND OF PERSON.
IF YOU WERE A PATRIOT LOOK FORGE INDEPENDENCE FROM ENGLAND, YOU WERE PITTING NEIGHBOR AGAINST NEIGHBOR.
AS THE TIDE TURNED AGAINST THE BRITISH, THE HE IS CRUDED CAVES UNDER THE CLIFFS PROVIDED REFUGE FOR LOYALISTS.
ONE CAVE BECAME KNOWN AS TORI CAVE.
>> THE STORY IS THAT JACOB SALISBURY, DURING THE BURGOYNE CAMPAIGN, WAS A LOYALIST TO THE CROWN WHO USED THAT LOCATION TO OBSERVE TROOP MOVE MANIES AT THE MOHAWK VALLEY BELOW THE ESCARTMENT.
HE WAS GIVEN AWAY BY THE SMOKE FROM HIS CAMPTIRE AND/OR THERE WAS A BOY OR INDIAN SEEN LOWERING GOODS DOWN TO WHERE HIS PLACE WAS AT HIS PLACE IN THAT CAVE.
THERE WAS A TROOP SENT OUT FROM ALBANY.
POSSIBLY BY THE COMMISSION ON CONSPIRACIES TO APPREHEND HIM AND IT IS SAID THAT HE WAS LATER BROUGHT TO ALBANY AND HANGED.
>> EVEN AFTER THE AMERICAN REVOLUTION, THE COLONY OF RENSSELAERWICK CONTINUED AND THE CLIFFS OF THACHER PARK WERE FARMED BY TENANTS.
>> THEY WERE FARMING ALONG THE TOP OF THESE ESCARTMENT AND FARMING BELOW THE ESCARTMENT.
THEY'RE FARMING PRETTY MUCH RIGHT UP TO THE TALIS SLOPE.
>> BECAUSE OF THE THIN AND ROCKY SOIL, FARMING ON THE TOP OF THE ESCARTMENT WAS CHALLENGING.
IN 1821, A STEEP ROAD WAS CUT ALONG THE CLIFF FACE, BUT THIS TREACHEROUS APPROACH DID LITTLE TO DIMINISH THE REGION'S ISOLATION.
>> ON THE CREEKS THAT WERE COMING DOWN THE MOUNTAIN, YOU KNOW, VERY STEEP, THE MILLS WERE LOCATED ALONG THOSE CREEKS AND THAT'S WHERE THE FARMERS WOULD BRING THEIR GRAINS TO BE GROUND AND SO THEY NEEDED TO GET FROM THE TOP OF THE CLIFF TO THE BOTTOM OF THE CLIFF, AND THAT'S WHY THEY BLASTED THE SECTION OF THE CLIFF AWAY SO THAT THEY COULD MAKE THE ROAD.
>> OVER THE CENTURIES, THE HELDERBERG REGION HAS BEEN THE SITE OF REBELLION AND GEOLOGICAL DISCOVERY.
[MUSIC] >> PEOPLE CAME FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD ACADEMIC TYPES TO JUST TAKE A LOOK AT THE MULTITUDE OF SHELLS THAT WERE ALL AROUND HERE.
>> THEIR ATTENTIONS WERE ALL HERE AT THE HELDERBERG ESCARTMENT.
>> IT BECAME FAMOUS AROUND THE WORLD.
THE EUROPEANS WOULD GET OFF THE BOATS AND SAY, WHICH WAY TO ALBANY?
>> THIS WAS A BIG DEAL.
>> THEY WANTED TO COME TO ALBANY TO SEE JAMES HALL AND TALK TO HIM AND HE THEY WANTED TO SEE THE HELDERBERGS AND SEE THE ROCKS AND.
>> THE STUDY OF GEOLOGY HAD BECOME FASHIONABLE.
NOT ONLY SCIENTISTS CAME TO THE HELDERBERGS BUT ARTISTS AS WELL.
JAMES HALL, HE WAS THE FIRST STATE GEOLOGIST AND PALEONTOLOGIST AND HE TRAINED A GENERATION OF PEOPLE WOULD WERE FASCINATED WITH PALEONTOLOGY AND HOW THIS WORLD BEGAN BEFORE MAN WALKED IT.
HE WOULD BRING UP EXPEDITIONS ALL THE TIME UP TO THACHER PARK TO LOOK AT THESE INCREDIBLE FOSSILS.
WHEN HE DIED, HE HAD A PRIVATE COLLECTION OF OVER 100,000 SPECIMENS.
>> SO CHARLES LYLE, PROBABLY THE GREATEST OF THE 19TH CENTURY GEOLOGISTS, HE CAME HERE TO TALK TO HALL AND SO THEY CAME HERE AND THEY FOUND THE CONTACT OF THE SANDSTONE AND UNDERLYING SEACRAFT LIMESTONE AND AND LYLE SAID, AHA!
I KNOW WHERE WE ARE.
STRATAGRAPHICLY, THIS IS THE DEVONIAN.
I CAN RELATE THE ROCKS IN NORTH AMERICA TO THE ROCKS IN EUROPE, AND THAT'S WHY THE HELDERBERGS ARE CALLED THE KEY TO THE GEOLOGY OF NORTH MERGE.
A COUPLE THINGS, FIRST, HE WAS WRONG.
[ LAUGHTER ] THE CONTACT BETWEEN THE TWO ARE NOT WHERE THE SLAVONIAN CONTACT IS AND TWO, THEY'RE STILL ARGUING OVER WHERE THAT IS.
>> THOUGH THE HELDERBERG REGION WAS BECOMING FAMOUS FOR ITS BEAUTY AND GEOLOGY, THE FARMERS STILL DID NOT OWN THEIR OWN LAND.
WITH THE DEATH OF STEPHEN VAN RENSSELAER IN 1989, THAT SYSTEM WAS ABOUT TO CHANGE.
>> KILLIAN VAN RENSSELAER DIDN'T PUSH THE TENANTS TO PUT UP THEIR TENTS AND STEVEN VAN RENSSELAER EVEN LESS AND WHEN STEVEN DIED, HE TWO SONS AND THERE WAS A GREAT DEBT LEFT BEHIND AND THEY SOUGHT TO COLLECT THESE DEBTS ON THESE FARMERS THAT HAD ORIGINALLY SETTLED HERE IN THE 16 AND 1700S.
THESE DEBTS WERE BEING CALLED UPON IN THE MID-1800S AND THE FARMERS HERE RETALIATED IN A BIG WAY.
THE FARMERS SAW THEIR SITUATIONS WITH OWNING LAND TO CHANGE OVER THE YEARS AND ONLY BY WOULD WAS GOVERNING.
THEY STILL OWED RENTS RIGHT UP TO THE 1800S AND YOU HAVE TO SAY TO YOURSELF, WHY WERE FREED AMERICANS FROM BRITISH RULE STILL NOT ABLE TO OWN THE FARMS THAT THEIR FAMILIES HAD WORKED FOR GENERATIONS?
AND THAT'S A QUESTION TO THIS DAY THAT MANY PEOPLE STILL ASK.
>> LYLE ACTUALLY WROTE A BOOK ABOUT HIS TRAVELS HERE BUT HIS TIME HERE IN THE HELDERBERGS, HIS BOOK CONCENTRATES MORE ON THE ANTI-RENT WARS THAN ON ANY GEOLOGY BECAUSE HE WAS FASCINATED BY THAT HE WAS HERE IN THE EARLY 1840S AND AFTER SO MANY YEARS AFTER THE REVOLUTION, THERE WAS STILL THIS HOLDOVER FROM COLONIAL DAYS.
SOME PEOPLE COULD PAY AND DID PAY.
SOME PEOPLE COULD PAY AND DIDN'T PAY THE RENTS TO THE LANDOWNER AND SOME PEOPLE COULDN'T PAY.
NEIGHBOR WAS PITTED AGAINST NEIGHBOR DEPENDING ON YOUR POSITION.
>> THE ANTI-RENT WARS ENDED NOT WITH A FINAL BATTLE BUT THROUGH LITIGATION OF THE COURTS.
ONE LAWYER, AN ADVOCATE FORTH ANTI-RENTERS WAS AN ATTORNEY NAMED ANDREW CALDEN, WHO ENLISTED HIS YOUNGER SON TO ENLIST HIM MAPPING PROPERTY LINES OF THE HELDERBERGS.
>> EVENTUALLY PEOPLE RECOGNIZED IT FOR ITS RECREATIONAL QUALITIES AND IN 1855, THE EARLIEST DOCUMENTS WE HAVE RECOGNIZING TOURISM IN THIS AREA WERE FROM THE TIMBUKTU SCHOOL, AND IT'S QUITE INTERESTING BECAUSE THE TIMBUKTU SCHOOL WAS LOCATED UP NEAR LAKE PLACID ON LANDS THAT GARRET SMITH AND JOHN BROWN HAD DEVELOPED FOR AFRICAN-AMERICANS AND IT HAS HANDDRAWN PICTURES OF THE GROUP VISITING AND TRAVELING UP AND DOWN THE INDIAN LADDER ROAD.
[MUSIC] >> FOR PLANK CULVIN, A TOPOGRAPHYER AND MAPPER OF THE ADIRONDACKS, ONE OF THE NAVIGATORS OF THE ADIRONDACK PARK, HE BEGAN HIS CAREER AT AGE 22 IN THE HELDERBERGS >> HE WAS A SURVEYOR AND WRITER WHO GREW UP IN THE AREA AND WROTE AN ARTICLE IN HARPER'S MAGAZINE ABOUT THIS REGION WHERE HE CLAIMED UP TO THE ESCARTMENT AND IN HIS ARTICLE, IT DESCRIBED THE ROCK FORMATION, THE KEYS, THE WATERTALLS IN VERY POETIC LANGUAGE AND DREW SOME REALLY WONDERFUL PEN-AND-INK ILLUSTRATIONS OF THE CLIFF AND WATERFALLS AND A LOT OF PEOPLE READ THIS ARTICLE IN HARPER'S AND WANTED TO SEE FOR THEMSELVES.
>> THE HELDERBERGS BEGAN TO ATTRACT TOURISTS AND HOTELS AND CAMPGROUNDS WERE DEVELOPED.
TRANSPORTATION OF THE AREA ALSO IMPROVED AND THE DELAWARE AND HUDSON RAILROAD PROVIDED SERVICE FROM ALBANY.
>> HE TALKS ABOUT GETTING OFF AT THE MEADOWDALE TRAIN STATION AND TRAVELING TO THE INDIAN LADDER ROAD WHICH HAD REPLACED THE ORIGINAL INDIAN TRAIL THAT WENT UP THROUGH THE HELDERBERGS AND HE TALKS ABOUT HIS WILD ADVENTURES THROUGH THE FOREST UP THE MOUNTAIN SLOPES AND HOW WONDERFULLY EXHILARATING THEY WERE.
>> PEOPLE'S LENS OF HOW WE LOOK AT LAPD AND LANDSCAPES REALLY CHANGES.
SO WHEN VERPLANK CALDEN CAME TO THIS AREA, HE SAW IT AS A NATURAL, WAILED AREA AND HE DESCRIBES IT AS ALMOST A JUNGLE AND WE SEE IT AS A MUCH TAMER PLACE BUT TO LOOK AT PIECES LIKE HIS, YOU CAN REALLY SEE A DIFFERENT PERSPECTIVE ON WHAT THE LAND WAS LIKE.
>> THIS TRAVEL WRITING IS DESIGNED TO GET PEOPLE SO THEY GO, WOW, I'VE GOT TO SEE THAT.
SO IT'S EXAGGERATED.
BUT AT THE SAME TIME, IT'S NOT OUTRAGEOUS YOU CAN SEE WHAT HE SAW.
YOU CAN GET A FEEL FOR WHAT HE SAW AND I THINK WHEN TRAVEL WAS MUCH MORE DIFFICULT, YOU KNOW, YOU GOT A DIFFERENT FEEL FOR A PLACE.
WHEN YOU HAD TO TRAVEL BY PLANE AND THEN BY CARRIAGE, IT WAS A LOT MORE DRAMATIC.
>> THE GREAT LEDGE OF THE HELDERBERGS HAD BECOME KNOWN AS THE INDIAN LADDER.
>> THAT TERM INDIAN LADDER WAS ACTUALLY SYMBOLIC OF A WHOLE REGION OF THE HELDERBERG ESCARTMENT, NOT JUST OF THE LADDER ITSELF BUT OF THE PEOPLE AND THE PLACES AND THE SIGHTS AND THE WHOLE WONDERFULLY, BEAUTIFUL PICTURESQUE AREA THAT IS NOW THACHER PARK.
>> MY UNDERSTANDING FROM EVERYTHING THAT I'VE READ AND BEEN TOLD IS INDIAN LADDER WAS BASICALLY A FALLEN TREE LEANED UP AGAINST THE CLIFF WHERE THE NATIVE AMERICANS COULD CLIMB UP AND DOWN THE BRANCHES OF THE TREE, SORT OF THE STUMPS OF THE BRANCHES OF THE TREE AS LADDER TO SCALE THE CLIFF.
I READ ABOUT OTHER INDIAN LADDERS USING THE SAME TECHNIQUE, PARTICULARLY IN THE NIAGRA FALLS AREA WHERE THEY WOULD TAKE MULTIPLE TREES TIE THEM END TO END, YOU KNOW, WITH VINES AND CLIMB UP AND DOWN THEM.
>> I DON'T KNOW WHY THIS AREA MIGHT BE CALLED INDIAN LADDER.
I KNOW THAT SOMETHING THAT OUR HISTORIC PRESERVATION DEPARTMENT HAD SOME KNOWLEDGE OF AND HAD HEARD OF AND THAT I KNOW THAT KIND OF THE CONCLUSION IS, AT THIS POINT, IT SEEMS LIKE FOLKLORE.
IT IS NOTHING THAT WE CAN CONFIRM, SOME TYPE OF HISTORY THAT HAPPENED WITH THE LADDERS AND THEY KNOW IT'S NOT OUR HISTORY.
IT'S INCONCLUSIVE.
>>THE INDIAN LADDER IS A LEGEND AND IT'S A STORY OF THE LADDERS THAT THE NATIVE AMERICANS USED TO GET OVER THE CLIFF, BUT THOSE STORIES WERE PERPETUATED FOR SOME REASON.
THE SETTLERS WOULD LIVED THERE AND FARMED THERE, DECIDED THAT IT WAS IMPORTANT TO CONTINUE TO TELL PEOPLE AND THEIR DESCENDANTS OF THAT ORIGINAL INDIAN LADDER TREE.
>> EVEN IF IT IS A LEGEND, I THINK IT'S INTERESTING THAT PEOPLE HAVE COME UP WITH IT BECAUSE WHEN THEY'RE UP THERE, ESPECIALLY AROUND THAT TIME IN THE VICTORIAN PERIOD WHEN A LOT OF PEOPLE WERE TOURING ABOUT UP THERE, THEY WERE THINKING ABOUT, YOU KNOW, WHO WAS THERE BEFORE THEM.
WHEN THE INDIAN LADDER ROAD WAS PUT IN THROUGH THE CLIFF FOR THE FARMERS FOR THE FARMERS TO USE AND THE TOURISTS USED IT AS WELL TO GET UP THERE, THEY MADE A LADDER AND PUT IT FURTHER DOWN THE CLIFF, A WRUNGED LADDER AND THEY--THE TOURISTS CLIMBED UP AND DOWN THE LADDER IN THEIR VICTORIAN GARB WHICH IS PRETTY AMAZING WHEN YOU CONSIDER THE SKIRTS AND EVERYTHING, AND THERE WERE MANY OF THOSE LADDERS BECAUSE THEY WOULD FALL APART AND HAVE TO BE REPLACED AND A LOT OF PEOPLE THOUGHT THAT WAS THE INDIAN LADDER, THAT THE INDIANS HAD USED.
THEY THOUGHT IT-- THE NATIVE AMERICANS HAD USED THIS ORIGINAL WRUNGED LADDER.
THERE'S A LOT OF INTERPRETATION.
>> VERPLANK VISITED THE ESCARTMENT BEFORE JOHN BOYD THACHER TOOK INTO CONSIDERATION THE IMPORTANCE OF THE HELDERBERGS.
JOHN BOYD THACHER WAS BORN IN BOSTON SPA IN 1847.
VERPLANK CALDEN WAS BORN THE SAME YEAR AND THEY HAD A RELATIONSHIP DURING THEIR CHILDHOOD THAT WENT ON TO EVOLVE AS ADULTS.
>> JOHN VOID AND VERPLANK WERE STUDENTS IN THE SAME CLASS AT ALBANY ACADEMY.
>> JOHN BOYD THACHER WAS MY GREAT, GREAT UNCLE.
>> GREAT, GREAT UNCLE?
>> YEAH.
SO YOU ARE HIS GREAT, GREAT GRAND NIECE AND HIS BROTHER, GEORGE HORNEL THACHER, IS MY GREAT GRANDFATHER DOWN THROUGH MY GRANDFATHER, KENELLUM THACHER AND MY FATHER, KENELLUM THACHER AND MYSELF AND ACTUALLY, MY BROTHER IS JOHN BOYD THACHER, III >> JOHN BOYD THACHER WAS A BUSINESSMAN.
ALSO HAD A LOT OF INTEREST IN HISTORY.
HE WAS A WRITER.
HE WAS A COLLECTOR.
HE WAS A POLITICIAN.
AND HE WAS JUST AN ENLIGHTENED PERSON WHO HAD A LOT OF IDEAS AND THOUGHT ABOUT A LOT OF THINGS AND WAS A LITTLE AHEAD OF HIS TIME.
>> WHEN HE AND HIS WIFE, EMMA TREADWELL THACHER, ESTABLISHED THEIR SUMMER HOME IN THE LATE 1880S, THEY REALLY FELL IN LOVE WITH THE REGION AND BECAUSE OF OTHER PEOPLE HE KNEW, SUCH AS VERPLANK, HE WAS REALLY MADE AWARE OF HOW INCREDIBLY UNIQUE TO THE WORLDWIDE GEOLOGY THIS ESCARTMENT IS AND THE FOSSIL RECORD HERE IN THE ESCARTMENT AND HE HEARD FROM HIS FRIENDS IN EUROPE HOW EXTREMELY IMPORTANT IT WAS TO PRESERVE THIS AREA, BOTH FOR THE GEE LOGIC RECORD AND FOR THE SCENIC BEAUTY.
HE AND HIS WHOLE FAMILY VERY STRONGLY BELIEVED IN THE IMPORTANCE OF OUTSIDE NATURE AND GETTING OUT INTO NATURE AND THEY WERE SOME OF THE EARLIEST PEOPLE TO GO UP INTO THE ADIRONDACKS AND BECOME SUMMER FOLK IN THE ADIRONDACKS.
>> HE HEARD, THROUGH HIS CIRCLES, THERE WAS A THREAT OF THE PAL SAIDS DOWN BY NEW YORK CITY MIGHT BE MINED FOR CEMENT, AND HE SAW THE SIMILARITY BETWEEN THE PALISADES AND THE HELDERBERG ESCARTMENT AND HE BEGAN TO BE CONCERNED THAT THE ESCARTMENT WOULD BE EXPLOITED FOR NATURAL RESOURCES FOR THE LIMESTONE, BASICALLY.
SEW STARTED BUYING UP THE LAND.
>> HE BEGAN IN ABOUT 1903 TO PURCHASE THE DIFFERENT PARCELS OF FARMLAND UP HERE THAT CONTAINED THE ESCARTMENT AND BY 1907, HE HAD COMPLETED THOSE PURCHASES OF APPROXIMATELY 300 ACRES THROUGHOUT THIS ESCARTMENT.
UNFORTUNATELY, HE PASSED AWAY IN 1909, BUT HE HAD ALREADY MADE CLEAR TO HIS WIFE, EMMA TREADWELL, THAT HIS INTENTION IN PURCHASING THESE LANDS WERE TO HAVE THEM GIVEN TO THE STATE OF NEW YORK, TO BE A STATE PARK FOR ALL THE PEOPLE OF NEW YORK AND THE PEOPLE OF THE COUNTRY TO COME AND ENJOY.
>> IN 1914, JOHN BOYD THACHER STATE PARK WAS ESTABLISHED.
EMMA TREADWELL LATER DONATED THE 50 ACRES THAT INCLUDED THOMPSON'S LAKE.
>> VERPLANK CALDEN IS THE CHIEF, IF NOT THE PRINCIPAL, INFLUENCE IN JOHN BOYD THACHER'S DECISION TO PAY ATTENTION TO THE HELDERBERGS AND TO PURCHASE A PIECE OF LAND HERE.
THE CONCEPT OF PROTECTION OF LAND AND THE FACTS THAT THERE WAY A RESPONSIBILITY AND YOU COULD ACTUALLY DO SOMETHING ABOUT IT, I THINK WAS KIND OF A UNIQUE CONCEPT BACK THEN AND THAT I THINK HE DESERVES A LOT OF CREDIT FOR THAT.
>> I THINK THE FACT THAT HE DIDN'T BUILD A GREAT BIG HOUSE UP HERE BUT INSTEAD BUILT THIS GIANT PUBLIC PARK KIND OF SAID SOMETHING THAT HE DIDN'T WANT TO JUST BE USING IT FOR HIM AND HIS FAMILY.
[MUSIC] >> THE NEW YORK STATE LEGISLATURE DELEGATED MANAGEMENT OF THE NEW PARK TO THE AMERICAN SCENIC AND HISTORIC PRESERVATION SOCIETY.
IN 1924, THE NEW YORK STATE PARK SYSTEM WAS ESTABLISHED AND THE PALISADES INTERSTATE PARK COMMISSION CAME UP WITH A REDEVELOPMENT PLAN FOR THE PARK.
AMONG MANY NEW FEATURES WERE A LARGE, RUSTIC LODGE SHELTER AND IMPROVED VISTAS.
BY 1927, THACHER PARK HAD GROWN TO 900 ACRES THAT INCLUDED THE INDIAN LADDER TRAIL AND ADDITIONAL LAND ALONG THE CLIFF.
THE BEAUTY OF THACHER PARK HAS DRAWN ARTISTS FOR GENERATIONS.
RENOWN PAINT PERIL STRAIGHTER, VICTOR COLEMAN ANDERSON, COMMUTED TO THE AREA EACH SUMMER FROM NEW YORK.
HE CAPTURED LIGHT IN AND AROUND THE ESCARTMENT.
SINCE 1903, FIVE GENERATIONS OF THE ANDERSON FAMILY LIVED ON THE SAME FARM BENEATH THE CLIFFS.
THACHER PARK AND THE HELDERBERGS ALSO CONTINUE TO BE A PLACE FOR GEOLOGICAL RESEARCH.
IN 1939, WINTERFORD GOLDRING, WOULD GREW UP IN THE AREA, WAS NAMED THE NEW YORK STATE PALEONTOLOGIST.
SHE WAS THE FIRST WOMAN IN THE UNITED STATES TO HOLD THAT POSITION.
HER BROCHURE, INTERPRETING THE FOSSILS OF THACHER PARK, IS STILL IN USE TODAY.
>> WHEN I WAS FIVE, I FOUND MY FIRST FOSSIL HERE IN THE PARK.
PROBABLY IN 1959 AND IT WAS THE FIRST TIME AND THERE IS SOMETHING GOING ON HIDDEN UNDER OUR FEET FROM MY MOTHER'S NIGHTSTAND WHEN I CAME UP HERE AND I DECIDED AT THAT TIME I WANTED TO BE A GEOLOGIST.
ANDED VIEW, IT'S PRETTY INCREDIBLE.
YOU CAN SEE ALL OF THE BUILDINGS THAT WE USE AS LANDMARKS TO FIND OUR WAY THROUGH MY AND AS A CHILD WE WOULD COME UP HERE FOR PICNICS AND HEIGHTS AND WE WOULD WALK ALONG THE TREALS AND THE WATERFALLS AND THE CAVES WE 0 COME UP HERE ON LATE NIGHTS AND ENJOY THE VIEW AND LOOK AT THE STARS AND HAVE FUN.
OF COURSE, WE WOULD DEVELOP AREAS BY PILING STONES AND YOU KNOW, CALLING THAT A FORT AND BE NATIVE AMERICANS AND EXPLORERS.
OF COURSE, MY PARENTS HAD A BELL OUTSIDE THE DOOR OF THE HOUSE AND THEY WERE ALL FINE WITH US HIKING UP ON THE MOUNTAIN AND PLAYING IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD AND IF THAT BELL RANG, YOU BETTER RESPOND RIGHT AWAY.
>>I REMEMBER THERE WAS DIFFERENT TIMES GOING UP THERE AND THERE WAS MOUNTAINS OF ICE, 20, 30 FEET HIGH.
>> THE WINTER IS A SEASON WHERE PEOPLE TEND NOT TO EXPLORE THESE AREAS AND IT'S A GREAT OPPORTUNITY BECAUSE THE CONTRAST OF THE ROCK AND THE SNOW IS JUST BEAUTIFUL.
SOME OF THE REALLY FUN TIMES THAT I'VE HAD EXPLORING HAVE BEEN IN THE WINTER AND THE TREMENDOUS ICE THAT FORMS COMING OFF THE ESCARTMENT.
>> IN 2001, THROUGH A COMBINATION OF PRIVATE DONATION AND PUBLIC FUNDING, THE EMMA TREADWELL THACHER NATURE CENTER ON THOMPSON'S LAKE WAS BUILT ENLIVENING ACTIVITY AT THE PARK.
SAT THE SAME TIME, THE 50-YEAR-OLD POOL WAS BEGINNING TO SHOW ITS AGE.
>> BY 2006, THE FACILITIES WERE AT THE END OF THEIR FUNCTIONAL LIFE AND WE COULDN'T MAINTAIN THEM ANYMORE.
SO WE HAD TO SORT OF ONE-TWO PUNCH WITH THACHER WHERE IT'S MAIN RECREATIONAL ATTRACTION, THE POOL, WAS TAKEN OUT OF SERVICE IN 2006 AND BY 2008, 2010, WE'RE SUFFERING MORE ATTENTION FROM THE ECONOMIC PROBLEMS THAT THE STATE WAS HAVING.
>> IN 2010, A BUDGET CRISIS THREATENED THE CLOSURE OF STATE PARKS IN NEW YORK, INCLUDING THACHER PARK.
>>THE PRESSURES ON STATE PARKS TO FIGURE OUT HOW WE WERE GOING TO EFFECTIVELY AND WEBSITES WITH LESS RESOURCES WAS A CRISIS.
IT WAS A CRISIS FOR THE PARK'S AGENCY AND WE GOT THROUGH IT AND ONE OF THE THINGS THAT WE TRIED TO DO WAS THINK ABOUT STRATEGIC CHOSURES OF PARKS AND THACHER WAS ONE OF THEM.
WHICH HEARD THAT THE PARK WAS GOING TO CLOSE I WAS REALLY UPSET.
>> I DIDN'T BELIEVE IT.
>> IT'S A PARK WITH A PUBLIC ROAD TOWING THROUGH IT.
WE COULDN'T LOCK IT UP.
BUT WE COULD DRAMATICALLY I SIGNED PETITIONS.
I WROTE A LETTER AND ASKED THE PARK SUPERINTENDENT WHAT I COULD DO.
>> STATE OFFICE OF PARKS GOT A PHONE CALL FOR MANY PEOPLE SAYING IF YOU CLOSE THACHER PARK, WE'RE GOING TO VERY UPSET.
>> LOSING THESE PARKS WAS LOSING AN IMPORTANT PART OF OUR STATE, A BEAUTIFUL PART OF OUR STATE AND THAT IT SHOULDN'T HAPPEN.
>> PARKS OCCUPY A SPECIAL PLACE IN OUR HEARTS AND MINDS AND OFTENTIMES WHAT I HAVE REALIZED IS THAT PEOPLE MAY NOT GO THERE OFTEN BUT THEY NEED TO KNOW THEY'RE THERE AND THE NEWSWORTHINESS THAT WE'RE CLOSING WE BROUGHT TOGETHER THE FRIENDS GROUP WITH THE PUBLIC AND HAD A NUMBER OF PUBLIC FORUMS TO SAY, HEY, AND COULD PROVIDE RECREATIONAL ASSETS THAT THE COMMUNITY WOULD REALLY LIKE AND VISITORS WOULD REALLY LIKE AND HOW PEOPLE LIKE TO RECREATE IN NATURE.
SIMPLE THINGS LIKE HIKING AND BIKING AND AND IT NEEDED A CENTRAL GATHERING POINT.
>> THE AND THE TRAILS AREN'T BEING MAINTAINED.
>> GOVERNOR ANDREW CUOMO THROUGH THE PUBLIC WORKS INITIATIVE DEVELOPED A PROGRAM TO REENERGIZE THE PARKS.
>> WHAT WE WANT TO DO IS DEEPEN AND ENHANCE THE EXPERIENCE SO THAT YOU UNDERSTAND WHAT YOU'RE SAYING AND CREATE >> THEY RANGE FROM MIGRATORY HAWK WATCHES, SCHOOL TRIPS AND WATCHES OF THE TRAIL.
>> IF I PUT MY OTHER HAND ON TOP OF IT AND PUT MY HAND BACK ON TOP, WHATEVER IS A PILE OF SOMETHING ON THE TABLE.
THE STUFF THAT'S BEEN THERE LONGER IS ALWAYS AT THE BOTTOM.
AND THE STUFF THAT'S ABOVE IT GOT STACKED UP LATER AND IT'S THE SAME THING LIKE YOU'RE AT THE PARK AND WHAT WE'RE GOING TO DO RIGHT NOW ON THESE STEPS AND WE WILL GO TO OLDER AND OLDER LAYERS.
>> ROCKS ARE LIKE PEOPLE.
YOU LOOK AT THEM, YOU SEE MORE THINGS AND THAT'S ONE OF THE KEY THINGS ABOUT THINKING ABOUT TIME LOOK A GEOLOGIST.
THINGS CHANGE SO MUCH OVER TIME.
ON THE SCALE OF AND THAT THE WHOLE SURFACE OF THE EARTH CHANGES.
ABOUT THIS TIME 400 MILLION YEARS AGO, WE WERE ABOUT 30 DEGREES SOUTH OF THE EQUATOR.
HUNDREDS OF MILLIONS OFIERS AGO, AND IT WAS 30 DEGREES SOUTH OF THE EQUATOR.
>> WE WERE RIGHT NEAR AND OVER TIME, THAT CHANGED, WATER WOULD GET DEEPER.
SOMETIMES UP TO A FEW HUNDRED FEET IN DEPTH AND AND DEEPENNING AND SHALLOWING OVER TIME AND THIS IS A TIME WHEN ALONG THE EAST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA HERE THERE WERE CONTINENT TO CONTINENT DECISIONS AS SMALLER SMALLER COULDN'T FENCES WERE IN THE EAST COAST AND FORMING A MOUNTAIN BELT DOWN TO ALABAMA.
AFTER THE ROCKS WERE FORMED THERE WERE HUNDREDS OF MILLIONS OF YEARS IT ERODE DOWN.
MILES AND MILES AND MILES OF ROCK AND I'M TALKING ABOUT TENS OF THOUSANDS OF YEARS AND COVERED THACHER PARK AND LAST TIME AND WENT OF TOPS OF PEAKS AND ADIRONDACKS AND HIGHEST PEAKS IN THE CATSKILLS AND AT THAT TIME, THAT ICE MODIFIED THE LANDSCAPE.
MOST OF THE THACHER LANDSCAPE FORMED BY WATER ACTION >> IT FILLED WITH WATER, THAT WOULD BE THE HUDSON AND MOHAWK VALLEY.
AND >> NATIVE AMERICANS COULD MOVE FOR THE FIRST TIME ABOUT 13,000 YEARS AGO.
>> THIS IS ACTUALLY A REEF OF SPONGES.
SUDDENLY THEN THERE'S THIS BREAK HERE WHERE THE ROCKS OF WEATHERED BACK MUCH MORE AND THEY HAVE A DIFFERENT CHARACTER.
SPONGE REEFS LIKE THIS FORM BELOW THE TIDE ZONES IN SHALLOW WATERS AND THAT TELLS ME QUICKLY THAT'S THE ROCKS IN THE LOWER HALF OF THE CLIFF, THE LOWER HALF WHERE SELINITIEY AND THESE ARE TITLE ENVIRONMENTS AND SOMETIMES WE'RE WITHIN THE LOW TO HIGH TIDE ZONE OR JUST ABOVE PIT SOMETIMES YOU'RE A LITTLE BELOW IT, BUT THE SELINITIES WEREN'T NORMAL.
LITTLE THIN LAYERS AND EACH ONE MIGHT BE THE TIDE COMING IN AND NEXT ONE, THE TIDE GOING OUT.
WE'RE FARTHER DOWN THE TRAIL AND AGAIN, THE LAYERING HAS CHANGED.
NOW YOU'VE GOT ABOUT HALF INCH TO INCH THICK LAYERING INSTEAD OF COUPLE INCHES THROUGH THIS INTERVAL.
COME UP HERE, IT'S THICKENING AGAIN AND YOU CAN SEE THE THIN LAYERS.
THIS IS ENVIRONMENTAL CHANGE BEING RECORDED BY THE SENTIMENT LAYER.
WHAT'S REALLY INTERESTING IS AS WE GET UP HERE A BIT HIGHER THIS HERE AND YOU CAN SEE IT LOOKS LIKE, IF YOU LOOK CAREFULLY, IT LOOKS LIKE COLUMNS THAT ARE BLOCKING LOOKING AND WHAT THESE ARE IN PLACES YOU CAN SEE THEM VERY WELL, THESE ARE BASICALLY AND EVERYBODY KNOWS WHAT MUD CRACKS LOOK LIKE IN THE TOP OF A PUDDLE OR SOMETHING THAT DRIES UP, RIGHT?
THERE'S THE CLAYS THAT MAKE UP THE MUD, SHRINK WHEN THEY GET DRY AND YOU GET THOSE MUD CRACKS.
MUD CRACKS GO DOWN THROUGH THE SEDIMENT AND THAT'S WHAT THESE STACKS ARE.
HERE IS THE EDGE OF A SERIES OF MUD CRACKS AND GO ALL THE WAY UP THROUGH ABOVE MY FINGER A LITTLE BIT.
WHAT DO MUD CRACKS TELL YOU?
MUD CRACKS TELL YOU THAT IT WAS WET AND IT DRIED.
WHAT WAS WET SEDIMENTS, DRIED UP AND THEN THE SEDIMENTS SHRUNK SOME AND THAT'S WHY YOU GOT THOSE CRACKS AND HAD THOSE SIX, EIGHT SIDES.
AND THE WALLS, THE REASON THERE'S A CURVE HERE IS BECAUSE THE WATER IS ERODING.
THE THE REST OF THE QUICK FACE IS NOT ERRONEOUS BECAUSE THERE'S NO WATER RUNNING OVER AND IF YOU EVER SEEN PHOTOS ON THE BASE OF THIS WATERFALL IN THE WINTERTIME, IT'S LIKE A VOLCANO, A VICE THAT BUILDS UP AND ICE AND WATER FALLING OVER THE CLIFF AND FREEZING AND YOU GET SOMETIMES A COLUMN COMING UP, A CONE COMING UP AND THEN A BIG COLUMN THAT COMES DOWN AND SOMETIMES IT'S CONTINUOUS THROUGH THERE.
WE'RE LOOKING UP AT THE CLIFF HERE AT THE FALLS RIGHT HERE.
THE ROCKS ON THAT SMOOTH FACE UP THERE, THE UPPER PART OF THE CLIFF, THOSE ROCKS ARE FROM THE DAVONIAN PERIOD AND STARTS AT 418 MILLION YEARS AGO, AND IT GOES UNTIL 358.
SO 60 MILLION YEARS OF TIME IN THE DAVONIAN PERIOD.
THE ROCKS BELOW THAT SMOOTH CLIFF, THAT SMOOTH FACE THERE ARE FROM THE LATE PART OF THE SALORIAN PERIOD WHICH IS 25 MILLION YEARS.
SO THAT'S WHERE WE UNDERSTAND THE BOUNDARY IS NOW.
TEN MILLION YEARS FROM NOW, NONE OF US WILL BE HERE OVER OUR HEADS.
WE WILL HAVE LONG, LONG FOLLOWED.
>> GEOLOGISTS HAVE EXPLORED AND CHERUBED THACHER PARK AND THE GREAT LEDGE OF THE HELDERBERGS FOR GENERATIONS, BUT THERE WAS A TIME WHEN BUILDING LOGS WERE LAID OUT ON THE TOP OF THE CLIFF FOR HOUSING DEVELOPMENTS, INCLUDING THE GLENN DUNE AND YELLOW ROCKS PICNIC AREAS.
>> THIS IS ONE OF THOSE AREAS IF THEY HAD GOTTEN THEIR WAY, WE WOULD BE LOOKING AT HOUSES ALL ALONG THE ESCART TO OVER 2,400 AKERS AND CHALLENGES REMAIN.
A PUBLIC-PRIVATE PARTNERSHIP BEGAN AT THACHER PARK WITH A DONATION OF LAND THAT HAD BEEN PRIVATELY PROTECTED AND THAT IDEA OF PROTECTION CONTINUES.
>>THE THE NEW YORK STATE OF HISTORIC PRESERVATION PARTNERS WITH LOCAL LAND TRUSTS.
SUCH AS THE MOHAWK HUDSON LAND CONSERVANCY AS WELL AS THE OPEN SPACE INSTITUTE.
>>THE OPEN SPACE INSTITUTE HAS LONG BEEN COMMITTED TO THIS LANDSCAPE AND REALLY IN THE PAST 15 YEARS, NEARLY 20 YEARS HAS BEEN INCREMENTALLY ADDING TO THIS PARK, CONTINUED TO PROTECT LANDSCAPES AND DOUBLING ITS SIZE.
>> I THINK THAT ONE OF THE GREAT BEAUTIES OF THACHER PARK IS LOOKING ACROSS THE VALLEY AND SEEING WHAT IS A FAIRLY UNDEVELOPED AREA.
IT'S INCREASINGLY SUBURBANIZING AND THERE'S AN AWFUL LOT OF ALL OF LOT OF OPEN LAND AND PEOPLE ARE QUICK TO FORGET HOW THAT IS A PART OF THE PARK.
THE VIEW SHED IS AS IMPORTANT AS THE REST OF THE PARK AND WE'RE VERY INTERESTED SEEING THAT SOME OF THOSE HISTORIC VIEWS BE PROTECTED.
>> ONE OF THE SPECTACULAR TIMES HERE IS WHEN THE FAMILY GOT TOGETHER AND WE AGREED TO RETIRE THE DEVELOPMENT RIGHTS ON THE FARM.
>> IN THE LATE 1990S, THE STATE STARTED MAKING FUNDING AVAILABLE TO PURCHASE DEVELOPMENT RIGHTS ON FARMLAND IN ORDER TO PERMANENTLY PROTECT THE LAND FROM DEVELOPMENT, AND WE WERE APPROACHED BY SOME PEOPLE WORKING IN LAND CONSERVATION AT THE TIME ABOUT THE PROGRAM.
>> WHAT WE ARE TRYING TO GET AT IS CREATING A CONNECTED CORRIDOR OF PROTECTIVE LAND AND SO WE STARTED WITH A PROJECT AT INDIAN LADDER FARMS, ACQUIRING THE DEVELOPMENT RIGHTS, THE CONSERVATION EASEMENT OVER INDIAN LADDER FARMS AND THAT WAS A SIGNATURE PROJECT FOR THE ORGANIZATION AND I THINK FOR THIS AREA BECAUSE THIS IS SO WELL KNOWN.
>> WE DID APPLY FOR FUNDING AND WE WERE APPROVED.
ONE OF THE MAJOR REASONS WHY WE WERE APPROVED OTHER THAN IT'S A HIGHLY PRODUCTIVE FARM ON REALLY GOOD SOIL IS BECAUSE OF OUR PROXIMITY TO THACHER PARK AND ALSO WE SORT OF LIE BETWEEN THE PARK AND THE FLAT CREEK WILDLIFE MANAGEMENT AREA WHICH IS, YOU KNOW, SEVERAL HUNDRED ACRES.
WITH THE EASEMENT ON THE FARM, WE ARE PROTECTED FROM DEVELOPMENT EVEN IF THE NITE FAMILY WOULD HAVE TO SELL AND NO LONGER OPERATE THE FARM, WHOEVER PURCHASES IT WILL NOT BE ABLE TO DEVELOP IT.
THAT RESTRICTION TRAVELS WITH THE DEED AND IT'S WHAT THEY CALL IN PERPETUITY.
>> IT'S A HUGE STEP AND IT'S THE RIGHT THING TO DO LOOKING BACK ON 10 OR 12 YEARS AND NOBODY CAN DO ANYTHING BUT FARMING ON THIS FARM.
WE PICK UP THE OBLIGATION OF KEEPING THE FARMING GOING BECAUSE WE DON'T HAVE A REAL ESTATE OPTION OF SELLING HOUSING LOTS.
>> THIS FARM HAS BEEN IN MY FAMILY FOR A LONG TIME.
I FEEL A SENSE OF PRIDE.
I ALSO FEEL A SENSE OF RESPONSIBILITY.
>> WHEN YOU SEE THAT MOUNTAIN AND EVERYTHING WAS RIGHT AT THAT TIME OF THE YEAR, YOU SAY, HEY, THIS IS THE RIGHT THING TO DO.
BUT IN LOOKING AT THAT, WE HAVE A NICE ISLAND THERE BUT IT'S REALLY TRULY AN ISLAND AND ALMOST AN ACTUAL ISLAND BECAUSE THERE'S NUMEROUS LARGE WETLANDS THAT SURROUND IT.
AND SO WE REALIZED FROM AN ECOOLOGICAL PERSPECTIVE THAT WE NEEDED TO GO MUCH FURTHER.
>> I'M NOT AN URBAN PERSON AND I WAS ALWAYS TRYING TO GET OUT OF THE CITY AND COMING OUT TO JOHN BOY THACHER PARK WAS ONE OF THE ESCAPES.
I HAVE KNOWN MARGARET FOR MANY YEARS AND MARGARET LIVED AT THE BASE OF THE ESCARTMENT NEAR THACHER PARK AND A PROPERTY THAT HAD BEEN FARMED FOR A LONG TIME CAME UP FOR SALE AND MARGARET WAS ANXIOUS TO PROTECT THE LAND.
SHE'S IN AN AREA FACING INCREASING DEVELOPMENT PRESSURE AND SHE WANTED TO SEE THAT THIS NOT BE DEVELOPED.
>> IT'S NOT SOMETHING THAT'S FOR MYSELF.
IT'S FOR MY GRANDCHILDREN, FOR THEIR CHILDREN AND ALL THE PEOPLE WOULD COME AFTER.
I DON'T WANT THEM TO HAVE TO LIVE IN A PLACE WHERE THERE'S NO TREES AND NO PLACE TO HIKE AND NO OTHER ANIMALS.
AND SHE APPROACHED THE OPEN SPACE INSTITUTE AND THE MOHAWK LAND CONSERVANCY AND AFTER A COUPLE FALSE STARTS, WE FINALLY GOT TO THE POINT WHERE WE COULD ACQUIRE A CONSERVATION EASEMENT ON HER PROPERTY AND SO THAT RESTRICTS THE DEVELOPMENT OF THE PROPERTY TO A SINGLE LOT AND THAT IS AN UNUSUAL CASE IN THAT THERE MAY BE SOME PUBLIC ACCESS AVAILABLE IN ON THAT PROPERTY.
>> THE JOHN BOY THACHER PARK IS IN A WONDERFUL PLACE SITTING RIGHT THERE AT THE TOP OF THE THE ESCARTMENT, WHICH EVERYONE CAN SEE.
AND IT'S OBVIOUS THAT IF YOU CAN CONNECT WHAT'S BELOW LIKE INDIAN LADDER FARM AND THEN WHERE I LIVE AND THEN ALL THE WAY UP THE CLIFF, THEN YOU'RE AT THE PARK AND BEHIND THE PARK, YOU GO OUT INTO COUNTRYSIDE AND OUT INTO THE CATSKILLS EVENTUALLY, YOU CAN HAVE A FANTASTIC, LONG CORRIDOR FOR CREATURES OF ALL KIND.
YOU NEED AN INFORMED CONSTITUENCY TO MAKE SURE THAT THE GOVERNMENT IS BEING RESPONSIVE TO THE PEOPLE'S NEEDS AND WHAT BETTER WAY TO DO THAT THAN TO HAVE FRIENDS GROUPS THAT ARE HELPING US PROTECT AND STEWARD THE PARK, VOLUNTEERING, COMING OUT TO HELP US TAKE CARE OF IT.
THE STATE DOESN'T HAVE THE RESOURCES THAT IT USED TO TO INVEST INTO THE PEOPLE AND EQUIPMENT AND UTILITIES AND EVERYTHING THAT IT COSTS TO TAKE CARE OF THESE PLACES.
SO THE MORE THAT WE CAN HAVE FRIENDS DO THAT FOR US AND WORK WITH US, IT'S NEVER GOING TO BE ONE OR THE OTHER.
A PARTNERSHIP IS GOING TO MAKE IT HAPPEN.
>> IF YOU VISIT THE CAPITAL OF NEW YORK, THERE'S NO MORE WONDROUS PLACE TO GO TO THAN THACHER PARK.
[MUSIC] >> MOTHER NATURE DID THIS FOR US AND IN TERMS OF ITS VIEWS AND IN TERMS OF ITS ENVIRONMENT, IN TERMS OF ITS GEOLOGY, IN TERMS OF ITS ECOOLOGICAL HISTORY AND SOCIAL HISTORY AND IT'S ALL HERE, RIGHT AT OUR FINGERTIPS.
>> WHETHER IT'S SCIENTIFIC DISCOVERY, HISTORICAL DISCOVERY, DISCOVERY OF PLACES TO RECREATE AND PLAY, THACHER PARK IS A PLACE OF DISCOVERY.
[MUSIC] >> WHENEVER PEOPLE APPROACH THIS AREA, THERE'S KIND OF THIS HUSH THAT FALLS OVER THE BUS WHICH I EXPERIENCED WHERE EVERYONE JUST KIND OF HAS THIS REVERANCE LIKE, WE'RE HOME.
>> WHENEVER I HAVE A DUTCH VISITOR, I TAKE THEM UP TO THE OVERLOOK BECAUSE IN THE NETHERLANDS, YOU DON'T HAVE ANYTHING LIKE THAT.
>> THERE'S A WARMTH AND A COMFORT TO IT WITH YOU'RE OLDER, BUT WHEN YOU'RE A CHILD, THERE'S AN EXCITEMENT TO IT.
THERE'S A SENSE OF DISCOVERY.
>> EVEN THOUGH IT'S EXOTIC AND DRAMATIC, IT'S ALSO FAMILIAR.
YOU'LL SEE THE TINIEST SEASHELL IN FOSSIL FORM AND THERE'S THE VIEW OF THIS VAST EXPANSE.
>> PARTS ARE SO IMPORTANT.
ESPECIALLY AS PEOPLE SETTLE MORE, BUT TO GO OUT IN THE WOODS TO LOOK ACROSS VAST LANDSCAPES FROM THE CLIFF EDGES AND STUFF AND TO THINK ABOUT LIFE, BUT ALSO TO THINK ABOUT DEEP HISTORY, THE TIME WHEN THE SEAS WERE HERE 400 MILLION YEARS AGO.
THAT JUST CRIMPS THE DIMENSIONS OF OUR OWN LIVES AND THE THINGS WE GO THROUGH TO REALLY NOT MUCH.
WE'RE HERE RIGHT NOW, WE'RE HERE RIGHT NOW.
BUT WE ARE JUST A SMALL FRACTION OF THE VAST HISTORY OF WHERE WE LIVE.
[ BAGPIPES PLAYING ] >> PRODUCTION FUNDING FOR THE GREAT LEDGE EXPLORING THACHER HAS BEEN PROVIDED BY YOUR CONTRIBUTION, THANK YOU.
AND BY-- [SINGING] THERE'S NO NEED TO COMPLICATE OUR TIME IS YOURS THIS IS OUR FATE I'M YOURS DO DO DO [SINGING] >> AND BY THE BENDER FAMILY FOUNDATION OF THE COMMUNITY FOUNDATION FOR THE GREATER CAPITAL REGION AND BY THE BARBARA LINELL GLASER COMMUNITY LAND PRESERVATION FUND OF THE COMMUNITY FOUNDATION FOR THE GREATER CAPITAL REGION.
FUNDING FOR CLOSED CAPTIONING PROVIDED BY FRIENDS OF THACHER STATE PARK.
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